The subfloor should be completely dry and level.
If this flooring is to be installed as a "floating floor" start by laying a thin layer of plastic foil to eliminate moisture penetration if installing over concrete. Next, lay a covering of foam. This will act as a cushion, and also as a sound barrier.

Please Note:
Wood is a natural product, and some color variation can occur. We recommend that each board should be checked for color uniformity before installation to ensure a pleasing result.

Installation as a "floating floor"

• 1) Tools needed: Hammer, saw, square, ruler, plumb-line, pencil, adhesive, crowbar, small wedges and a tapping block.
• 2) Be aware that there should be enough space between the door when installing floor.
• 3) An expansion gap of 3/8" - 1/2" should be left around the perimeter of the floor and also around partitions or other fixed articles in the room.
• 4) Begin from a straight, sound wall, with the groove of the first row of boards facing the wall. Use wedges between board and wall to obtain a gap of 3/8" - 1/2". Mark first row position with a plumb-line to ensure a straight line along the length of the wall.
• 5) Cut the last piece in the row to size, and wedge the end of board to ensure a tight fitting joint. A continuous 1/8" bead of PVAC adhesive should be applied to the top of the groove.
• 6) Begin the next row with the piece left over from the previous row. The distance between cross-joints should be at least 1 foot. using the tapping block as a striking block to wedge the boards together. Do not use excessive force. Remove any surplus glue with a damp cloth immediately.
• 7) The final row will have to be sawn to the correct width (allowing 3/8" - 1/2".)
• 8) Place the sawn board into its position and wedge tight with a crowbar or lever and wedges.
• 9) Let the glue cure for at least 30 mins. before walking on the floor. Before nailing the skirting board in place, remove all wedges.