Installation Guide
Table of Contents

Important Information
Before you Begin

Required Tools for Proper Installation

Room Layout and Pattern

Pre-Installation / Job Preparation

Glue-Down Installation

Staple-Down Installation

Floating Floor Installation

Moldings Help You Make Easy Transitions

Important Information Before You Begin

You've selected your new hardwood flooring. You've measured the rooms and determined the layout. You're ready to begin. But, before you actually start laying flooring, it is very important that you review the information in this brochure for a successful installation.

We've put together a brief description of the tools you will need, information about determining adequate subfloor requirements, step-by-step installation instructions, as well as clean-up and maintenance tips.

It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you read and understand this information completely prior to starting, since improper installation can void the warranties.

• Once you are assured that site and subfloor conditions are acceptable, and that the indoor environment meets the specified range in temperature and humidity, you can arrange for the flooring to be delivered. Place the packages flat in the area where they will be installed.
• Review your molding inventory to make sure you have the proper moldings on hand as well as other sundries (e.g., Duck-Glue™ Adhesive at 40 sq. ft. coverage per gallon, putty, etc.).
• Prior to installation, select flooring that closely blends with your molding color so you can ensure the best transition.
• Open a number of flooring cartons to review the wood tones/colors in the proper lighting and jobsite situation.
• Determine the flooring pattern and its direction within the room or rooms. PLEASE NOTE: Lay flooring perpendicular to floor joists, unless floor structure has been strengthened to prevent sagging of the subfloor.

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Required Tools for Proper Installation

Power Tools

• Table Saw, Band Saw, Chop Saw, Power Jamb Saw, or Jig Saw

Hand Tools

• Floor Scraper
• Rubber Mallet
• Chalk Line
• Pry Bar
• Tapping Block
• Hammer
• Safety Glasses
• Tape Measure
• Hand Saw
• Hand Jamb Saw
• Straightedge

Additional Tools for Glue-Down Installation

• Duck-Glue™ Adhesive
• 3M® Safe Release Tape #2070
• Square Notch Trowel

Additional Tools for Staple-Down Installation

• Approved Stapler or Nailer
• 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch Flooring Adapter (included with tool)
• Compressor with Regulator and Hoses
• Approved Staples or Cleats
• 15-pound Felt Paper
• Hearing Protection

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Room Layout and Pattern

While the choice of color is the most important design decision when it comes to any decorative surface, pattern is also important. That is especially so when it comes to specialty themes, such as wood floors employing a theme reminiscent of Historic Colonial Williamsburg floors with a pattern of 3-inch and 5-inch alternating planks.

Pattern also plays a role in creating a focal point in a room. Consider how planks running toward a fireplace hearth would help lead your guest's eyes in that direction. Pattern contributes to other design needs such as making a large room feel smaller and more cozy simply by using wide planks. Diagonal plank patterns work well as problem-solvers when walls are not running parallel or are out of square.

We offer many different pattern selections, not all of which are available in all wood tones. These include 2 1/4-inch strip flooring, and 3-inch and 5-inch planks. The most popular patterns by far are the 3-inch wide planks.

Determining Layout for a Room with a Border:

For either parallel or diagonal layouts, you need to establish working lines at the perimeter of the room. In Diagram One, dotted lines A and B will represent the estimated inside working lines of the border.

To Establish Perimeter Working Lines:

The distance between the two parallel lines A should be equal to a multiple of the width of the materials being installed. Parallel lines A should also be equidistant from their adjacent walls. These lines should be adjusted to fit the width and the aesthetics of the border design. If the number of pattern repeats is uneven, it will be necessary to adjust the Y axis working line so that the pattern is even on each side of the room. Using a chalk line, snap parallel lines A, which represent the inside of the parallel border.

To establish perpendicular lines B, parallel to each other, measure the distance between one parallel line A and the adjacent walls. Measure the distance from the reference point of line B to the X axis line. Perpendicular lines B must be equidistant from the X axis line. Once these lines have been established, snap working chalk lines. These lines represent the inside of the perpendicular border.

For fields installed on a diagonal, it is important to adjust lines A and B to represent a distance from the wall that is equal to a multiple of the width of the units installed as the border. Snap a chalk line at this point; that line now becomes a working line.

Parallel Layout:

For parallel layouts, you will need to begin with 90-degree working lines at the center of the room. To establish a 90-degree working line start by snapping a chalk line through the center of the room (line Y). See Diagram Two. The next line (X) must be exactly 90-degrees to line Y to form a perfect square corner. To ensure this angle, do the following:

1. From the center point (A) of line Y, measure four feet along line Y and mark that point (B).
2. From the same center point, measure three feet in the general direction of where line X will be and scribe an arc.
3. Return to the original four-foot mark on line Y and measure five feet, scribing an arc that crosses (point C) the three-foot arc you made in the previous step.
4. Verify all measurements before proceeding.
5. If correct, snap a chalk line through the conjunction of the two arcs and the center point of line Y. This will be line X, at an exact 90-degree angle to line Y.

Diagonal Layout (Standard):

For diagonal layout of linear or uniform size units, you will start with a diagonal working line in the center of the room. (Herringbone installation requires a different working line.) To establish a 45-degree working line, Line DE must be positioned at exactly a 45-degree angle to lines X and Y to form working lines for diagonal layout. To accurately ensure this angle, do the following:

1. From the center point, measure four feet down in each direction on lines X and Y.
2. From each of these points, measure four feet and scribe an arc. The conjunction of these arcs creates points D and E.
3. Snap a chalk line between points D and E, and the center point. This line represents a 45-degree angle.

Special Layout Note for 5-inch-wide Planks

Before measuring out from the starter wall, do a calculation to determine the width of the last row of planks. If the last row is less than 1 1/2 inches wide, add that dimension to 5 inches and divide the sum in half. Add this dimension to Step #1 to determine the location of the chalk line.

2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall and perpendicular to the adjacent walls.
3. Since most walls are not straight, the edge of some planks installed against that wall may have to be trimmed (scribed) along their width to fit. Remember: It is not necessary to leave an expansion space for 3/8" and 1/2" products, unless the room is larger than 20 feet in either direction.

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Pre-Installation / Job Preparation

1. Basic Cleaning:

Begin by sweeping or vacuuming the entire floor to remove all loose dirt, dust and debris.

2. Trim Removal:

Remove existing wall base, quarter round, door threshold and other transitions.

Subfloor Inspection

All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer's recommendations. Our warranties DO NOT cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures. See above for details on substrates.

Subfloor Moisture Conditions

While hardwood flooring does not require a moisture test of a wood subfloor prior to installation, it is highly recommended you do so to avoid potential failures, and so that remedial measures can be taken to correct any later situation. Subfloors can be tested using a quality moisture meter. The subfloor moisture content registered after a calcium chloride test should not be greater than 10% or 3 pounds per 1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, DO NOT install the flooring. See above for moisture information.

3. Subfloor Cleaning:

Remove all curing agents, sealers, paint, grease, dirt, wax, oil, adhesive, drywall patch, or any other contaminant that will hinder installation.

NOTE: This is EXTREMELY important when using both Duck-Seal and Duck-Glue. The failure to remove any substance from the subfloor can result in inadequate penetration of Duck-Seal and inadequate adhesion of Duck-Glue and is not covered under warranties. Use the necessary tools and be certain to clean the residue from the floor prior to installation.

4. Subfloor Preparation:

The subfloor must be smooth, meeting a minimum of 3/16 inch within 6 feet. To check, use either a 10-foot straightedge (e.g. a level) or stretch a 10-foot string across the floor noting any dips or crowns. If these dips or crowns exceed 3/16 inch within 6 feet, they must be leveled. Use a Portland-cement-based leveling material to fill all low spots and sand all crowns to meet the 3/16 inch, 6 foot requirement.

Structural Requirements

The subfloor must be structurally sound. Local building codes may only establish minimum requirements of the flooring system and may not provide adequate rigidity and support for proper installation and performance of a hardwood floor. (See above for details.)

5. Concrete subfloors:

Whether they are on-grade or below-grade, concrete slabs should be constructed to prevent groundwater from penetrating the concrete.

Hardwood flooring can be installed at grade, on-grade, or below-grade. In addition, it can be installed over above-ground, suspended concrete floors. The suspended concrete, however, must be a minimum of 1 1/2 inches thick and must be structurally sound. The exception to this is lightweight concrete having a density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot. This concrete is unsuitable for glue-down installation. Test for lightweight concrete by using a coin and scraping it across the face of the concrete. If the concrete crumbles or turns to powder, it is not sound and you should NOT install the hardwood flooring.

Other Subfloors

Ceramic tile and terrazzo subfloors should be free of wax and sealers. Glazed ceramic tile and some smooth terrazzo should be roughed with a 60-grit sandpaper or carborundum stone. Check for loose tiles by tapping with a block of wood. Fill grout lines with Portland cement/latex underlayment.

When installing over vinyl tile, sheet vinyl, or reinforced vinyl tile, be sure the subfloor is not loose. Reglue or cut out any loose sections. Clean all vinyl flooring with a quality cleaner/stripper to remove wax and sealer.

CAUTION: DO NOT SAND existing resilient tile, sheet vinyl flooring, backing or flooring felt. They may contain asbestos fibers not readily identifiable. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause serious bodily harm. Check local, state, and federal laws for handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

NOTE: Do not glue, staple, or nail down hardwood flooring over particle board subfloors.

NOTE: Structurally sound floors will not have movement or deflection. Improperly installed subfloors can and will eventually cause squeaking. It is the installer's responsibility to be sure the subfloor system is free of movement and deflection, and is installed in accordance with local building codes. Problems caused by these issues are not covered by our warranties.

NOTE: Never install hardwood flooring over perimeter-glued resilient flooring.

6. Inspect the Flooring:

Wood is a natural product, containing natural variations in color, tone, and grain. Before hardwood flooring is shipped, each plank goes through many inspection procedures. A slight variation in color from plank to plank is to be expected. We do not warrant against these natural variations from plank to plank or between variations between samples and the flooring.

We urge you, as the final inspector for the consumer, to inspect for color, finish, and graining PRIOR to installation. Care should be taken at this time to remove or repair particular characteristics you do not desire.

NOTE: If you are not satisfied with the flooring prior to installation, simply return the carton(s) to your dealer for a full replacement.

7. Undercut Door Casings:

Undercut all door casings 1/16" higher than the thickness of the flooring being installed. To do this, use a scrap piece of flooring as a guide. Lay it on the substrate and cut the casing with a handsaw or a power jamb saw set at the correct height.

8. Blending of Cartons:

To achieve a uniform appearance across the entire floor, we highly recommend that you open several cartons of flooring and dry-lay the flooring, mixing the planks from several cartons, being certain to "rack" the planks (see "Racking the Floor" below). This will allow you to blend the planks for maximum aesthetic appearance. Make certain the room is well lit to ensure color is consistent and that any visual defects can be seen and removed.

PLEASE NOTE: We do not accept responsibility for any costs incurred when plank(s) with visible defects have been permanently installed.

Engineered planks have little expansion or contraction compared to solid wood flooring. This unique structural ability permits versatility in selecting the direction the floor can be installed and increases choices in creating designs. Whenever possible, however, install the planks perpendicular to joists for maximum strength. This stability also allows the planks to be installed against walls or other vertical surfaces such as sliding glass doors, cabinetry, and fireplaces. In floors measuring more than 20 feet in either direction, leave a 1/2-inch expansion space on side and end perimeters.

9. Match Transition Moldings:

For best appearance match all transitions and moldings to planks that have similar color and graining. Set them aside for use as needed.

10. Racking the Floor:

Racking the floor is essential to achieve a random appearance. Start by either using random-length planks found in the carton or by cutting four or five planks in random lengths, differing by at least six inches. When starting these first few rows, or courses, make certain to always measure from the tongue end of the plank for cutting. As you continue working across the floor be sure to maintain the six-inch minimum between end joints on all adjacent rows. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance. Never waste materials; the end cuts from starter rows should be used at the opposite side of the room to complete rows or used to start the next row.

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Glue-Down Installation

Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep. information above. You will find all the necessary tips, tests, and tactics to make your job a quality professional installation.

NOTE: With the glue-down installation method, you MUST install the hardwood flooring by using the "Off the Floor" technique. In other words, you MUST be working with your feet on the subfloor and NOT standing or walking on the newly installed flooring during installation. Failure to follow this procedure can result in the planks moving during installation, creating gaps at both end and side joints.

1. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the width of two planks plus the tongue.

2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall and perpendicular to the adjacent walls. Since most walls are not square, the edge of some planks may have to be trimmed along the wall.

3. Prior to installing the flooring, it is highly recommended that a straightedge be firmly secured along the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the final row of planks from shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece of 2x4 lumber or a metal angle iron. Alternatively, the first row can be face-nailed with finishing nails into the wood subfloor or spri/pin nailed into a concrete subfloor.

4. Spread Duck-Glue™ adhesive from the chalk line/straightedge out to approximately the width of two planks using the square-notched trowel sized for the flooring being installed. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing the starter wall.

NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can ruin the entire installation and can cause side and end gaps. When you have the starter row complete, you can begin the next row.

5. The precision-engineered tongue-and-groove system creates a very stable flooring installation. But you MUST make certain that you have made a good connection. Use a tapping block to tap the planks together until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present at the sides or ends of adjacent planks.

NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This practice can damage the flooring and/or the finish.

6. When you are certain the first two starter rows are straight and secure, spread 2 1/2 to 3 feet of adhesive across the length of the room. As a general rule, never spread more adhesive than can be covered in 30 to 45 minutes.

7. Continue to install planks and tap them into place.

NOTE: As stated earlier, it is extremely important to blend planks from several cartons to ensure a good balance of color and graining.

8. After several rows of planks are down, lay perpendicular strips of 3M® Safe Release #2070 tape 12 inches apart, to hold the planks securely. Repeat this process as the installation progresses.

9. When you get to the far wall you will likely find it necessary to cut the final row in width to fit against the wall. Do this by laying the plank in position and scribing a line on the plank. Install using the pry bar.

10. Go back to the beginning of the installation and remove the straightedge.

11. Spread adhesive onto the exposed subfloor and use a pry bar to position the final two rows into place. Cut the side of the last row to fit, as needed.

IMPORTANT: Retain several leftover planks in case a repair is required.

12. Allow the adhesive to cure for approximately 24 hours before permitting foot traffic or moving furniture onto the floor.

13. Carefully peel up blue tape 24 to 36 hours after installation is completed. Do not wait more than 7 days to remove tape since it gets tackier over time.

14. Clean any wet Duck-Glue adhesive from the flooring with a lightly dampened clean cloth or sponge. If the adhesive has dried, use mineral spirits on a clean cloth.

Final Inspection:

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products. In typical climates, the new floor can accept foot traffic within 24 hours. In areas where additional curing time is required, more time may be needed.

Floor Protection During Construction:

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.

Special Layout Note for 5-inch-wide Planks:

Before measuring from the starter wall, do a calculation to determine the width of the last row of planks. If the last row is less than 1 1/2" wide, add that dimension to 5 inches and divide the sum by two. Add this dimension to Step #1 to determine the location of the chalk line.

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Staple-Down Installation

Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep. information above. You will find all the necessary tips, tests, and tactics to make your job a quality professional installation. After you have completed all the pre-installation job preparation, the next step is to cover the subfloor with 15-pound asphalt felt paper. Install the felt by rolling it out over the cleaned substrate and tacking it into place. Roll the next run out and butt the joints; DO NOT LAP the side joints of the felt paper. This material will help keep dust away from the wood floor, retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications), and may prevent squeaks from occurring.

1. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the width of two planks plus the tongue.

2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall and perpendicular to the adjacent walls. Since most walls are not square, the edge of some planks may have to be trimmed along the wall.

Set-Up and Use of Pneumatic Staplers and Nailers

3. Inspect equipment prior to use and become familiar with the tools and their operation, especially the pneumatic stapler and staples. When used improperly, staples can damage wood flooring and injure you or others. Test the tools on scrap material first.

4. Parts that engage the planks must not have any sharp burrs that can scratch or damage the flooring, especially the prefinished surface.

5. Make certain the tool's adapter seats properly in the tongue of the flooring.

WARNING: Make sure the adapter size for the pneumatic stapler or nailer matches the thickness of the product being installed. In other words, be certain to use the 1/2-inch adapter when installing 1/2-inch products.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Only use manufacturer's recommended staples or nails.

6. See the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up and operation.

7. Do not exceed manufacturer's recommended pressure setting for the compressor since this can damage the stapler or cause harm to you or others.

8. Calibrate compressor so the staples are properly set into the nail pocket to avoid damage to flooring and to prevent squeaking.

NOTE: If the stapler is improperly set up, the staples will not be positioned correctly and may cause dimpling, peaking, squeaking, or crackling of the floor.

Practice and Adjust: On a scrap piece of flooring, set the stapler flush onto the tongue side of the plank and install a staple. Should the staple penetrate too deeply or not deeply enough, reduce or increase the pressure, using the regulator until the staple is flush. When the top of the staple's crown is flush with the nail pocket, the tool is properly positioned.

Step-by-Step Instructions

9. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank (in the dark grain), near the chalk line side and secure planks with finishing nails.

10. The precision-engineered tongue-and-groove system creates a very stable flooring installation. But you must make certain that you have made good connections. Use a tapping block to tap the planks together until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between adjacent planks.

11. Engage the nailer onto the tongue side of the plank, using with the proper adapter (see stapler/nailer instructions for proper set-up), and install the staples or nails. Install the nails no further than 1-inch from the end of each plank and 4 to 6 inches on center.

NOTE: Proper alignment is critical on the remainder of the planks. Misaligned starter rows can ruin the entire installation and can cause side and end gaps.

NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This can damage the flooring and/or finish.

12. When you are certain the starter row is straight and secure, continue to staple the remaining rows using the same Powernailer Model 200 schedule of no further than 1 inch from the end of each plank and 4 to 6 inches on center.

13. You will also not be able to use the stapler on the last few rows. To fasten the final planks into place, you must either manually nail into the tongue or face-nail through the surface on the final planks. Use the pry bar to hold the last planks firmly against the installed planks. To attach into the tongue, drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the floor and install finishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face and install finishing nails or use a brad tacker to secure the planks in place.

14. When you get to the far wall, you will likely be required to cut the final row in width to fit against the wall. Do this by laying the plank in position and scribing a line on the plank.

15. Cut the planks for the last row and use a pry bar to position them against the others. Face nail the planks into place.

16. Go back to the beginning of the installation and remove the straightedges.

17. Install the planks, using a pry bar to position the final two rows into place and face-nail or tack as needed. Cut the side of the plank to fit (if you measured the chalk).

IMPORTANT: Retain several leftover planks in case a repair is ever required.

Alternate Manual Nailer Method:

18. If a manual nailer is desired, use the Powernailer Model 50C with 1 1/4" cleats. Again, staple every 4 to 6 inches on center and no more than 1 inch from the end of each plank, while using the same procedures described in the previous sections.

PLEASE NOTE: If you use a manual nailer it is highly recommended that you practice with scrap material so you get a feel for the force required to set the staple since excessive force will cause dimpling and damage to the tongue, which can telegraph to adjacent planks.

WARNING: Use of any non-recommended staplers or nailers may result in dimpling or damage to planks. Do not use manual or pneumatic staplers not recommended by our company.

Special Note About Staple and Nail-Down Installations:

Some squeaking, popping and crackling of the flooring is inherent to all staple-down and nail-down flooring installations. This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered under our warranties (see warranty on Page 74 for complete warranty coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation. You should also be sure that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct nailing schedule.

Final Inspection:

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

Floor Protection During Construction:

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.

Special Layout Note for 5-Inch-Wide Planks:

Before measuring from the starter wall, do a calculation to determine the width of the last row of planks. If the last row is less than 1 1/2" wide, add that dimension to 5 inches and divide the sum by two. Add this dimension to Step #1 to determine the location of the chalk line.

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Floating Floor Installation

PLEASE READ AND FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY IF YOU CHOOSE TO PERFORM THIS TYPE OF INSTALLATION!

It is very important when installing a floating floor to follow these instructions exactly.  These only apply to 1/2" thick by 4 1/2", 5" or 6 1/4" wide planks:

Subfloor
The installer is the final judge as to whether the subfloor meets the following requirements.  If these requirements are not met it may jeopardize the success of the installation.

• The floor must be clean and free of any defects such as loose boards and squeaks due to improper installation of plywood on the joists.

• Concrete floors must be fully cured and dry.  A calcium chloride test measuring 3 lbs per 1000 square feet or less is recommended.

• Moisture content in wood sub floors must be 10% or less

• Floors should be flat, and sound, with no voids greater than 3 inches.  Floor must be level within 3/16” in 10 linear feet.

• Moisture barrier should not be used over a vinyl, wood, or a wood product sub floor.

Existing Subfloor
Anderson Hardwood Floors (1/2” X 4 ½, 5, and 6 ¼” widths) may be floated over most existing sub floors, such as vinyl, wood, linoleum, concrete, tile, or terrazzo. 

• Do not install over carpet.

• If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub floor.  Perimeter glued vinyl should be checked carefully.

• If installing over an existing wood floor, install the Anderson flooring at right angles to the wood floor.

• Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws.

• Never use the poly moisture barrier on wood floors, or wood sub floors.

• Floating floors should not be installed over solid wood flooring glued to a concrete sub floor.

• Do not install Anderson floating floors over radiant heated sub floors.

Tools and Materials Needed

• Pencil

• Measuring tape

• Safety glasses

• Rubber mallet

• Anderson Duck Set Adhesive

• 3M 2080 Blue tape

• T-Square

• Bona X Swedish Formula Cleaner

• Terry Cloth towels

• Duct Tape

• 6 Mil Poly Plastic Sheeting

• Foam underlayment

• Table saw or Chop saw

• Jamb saw (Hand or power)

• Tapping Block

• Pry/Pull Bar

• 5/16” Spacers

Your local Anderson retailer can help you find the above mentioned items.

Job Preparation

Remove all doors and shoe moldings.  Undercut all door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of the flooring and underlayment to be installed.  Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a hand saw or power jamb saw set to the correct height.  Be sure sub floors are sound and dry and level within 3/16” in 10 linear feet.

After deciding the direction in which the planks run, measure the width of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the flooring).  The last row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½” wide.  If it is less, we recommend cutting the starter row narrower.  This will require extra cutting, but it will make the rest of the installation easier and faster.

NOTE: Planks installed parallel to the longest wall will accent the floor best.

Racking the Floor

This process is essential to achieve a random appearance.  Start by either using random length planks found in the carton or by cutting four to five planks in random lengths, differing by at least 6” minimum between end joints on all adjacent rows.  Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.  Never waste materials; the ends (if over 8” in length) cut from starter rows should be used at the opposite side of the room to complete rows or used to start the next row.

Install Underlayment

To provide a moisture barrier for floors on concrete or below grade, install 6 mil. Poly plastic sheeting, overlapping edges 4” and seal seams with duct tape.  Install 1/8” foam underlayment. 

Flooring Installation

Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring.  Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out.  Leave a minimum of 3/8” space between flooring and wall.  When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit.  (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side tongue of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).

Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” apart to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and the wall.  Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep flooring square and straight.

Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second row.  If the piece is less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use that piece to start the second row.

Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row.  Make sure that the rows are straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends.  Once you have dry laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in order.  You are ready to begin.

In a floating floor installation, the flooring is not nailed or glued to the underlayment, but is glued in the plank’s side and end GROOVES ONLY.

The gluing procedure for Anderson floating floors is as follows:

1. Completely fill the end GROOVE with Anderson Duck Set Adhesive.

2. Glue should be applied to the plank’s side GROOVE at 6” intervals using Anderson Duck Set Adhesive. (i.e. glue 6”, skip 6”, glue 6” etc…)

The installation sequence is critical and provides stability to the first two rows.  Proper alignment is imperative as misaligned starter rows can ruin the entire installation.

Install first row of planks with groove facing starter wall.  Use a tapping block and a mallet to gently push or tap glued planks together until no gaps are visible and making sure that end joints are square. If this becomes difficult, check the groove for any debris.  (Never use a mallet or hammer directly on the surface of the flooring)  Immediately wipe away any excessive adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth.

At the end wall use a pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the planks tight.  Continue laying the floor on top of the underlayment, working left to right, laying plank after plank, row after row, tapping the planks together as you go.  Be sure to continue using 5/16 spacers on all vertical surfaces throughout the installation. 

After several runs of planks are down, lay perpendicular strips of 3M 2080 Long Mask Blue Tape 12” apart to hold the planks securely, Repeat this process as the installation progresses.

The last row will most likely require cutting to width but it should be no less than 1 ½” wide.  To do this, lay the plank on top of, and edge to edge with the plank in the next to the last row.  Trace the wall contour on the last plank using a scrap piece of plank as required.

Install cut planks and pull into place with a pry bar.  Install spacing wedges between planks and wall.  Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all spacing wedges and allowing foot traffic.  Sweep the floor to remove all dust and dirt, taking care not to scratch the finish.

Remove any glue residue using a rag or terrycloth towel lightly dampened with water.  Then clean with Bona X Swedish Formula Cleaner.

Final Inspection

After the floor is cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, and planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention.  Touch up nicks and scratches with Anderson Hardwood Floors touch up products.  In most climates, the floor can accept foot traffic within 12 hours.  Damp or humid sites may require additional drying time.

Floor protection during construction

Always protect the surface of installed flooring during construction by laying a quality red rosin paper or single faced cardboard over the floor and taping it to the baseboards.  Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they trap moisture.  The covering material must allow the floor to breathe.

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Moldings Help You Make Easy Transitions

We can provide you with color-coordinated moldings for every installation situation to help you make your flooring transitions easy. Use pre-finished moldings:

• Where wood flooring meets door thresholds (Horizontal Transition)
• Where wood flooring meets carpeting, vinyl flooring, ceramic, and many other types of flooring (Horizontal Transition)
• Where wood flooring meets walls (Vertical Transition)
• Where expansion gaps need to be covered (Vertical Transition)

Horizontal Solutions

1. T-Moldings: When you want to make a smooth transition between flooring surfaces in adjoining rooms, T-Moldings do the job. Use them in doorways and borders where floors of approximately the same height meet.
2. Stair Nosings: Here's the answer for adding a professional look to your steps and stairways. They are built tough to catch the brunt of foot traffic while maintaining the overall beauty of the staircase or step.
3. Reducer Strips: To make a smooth transition between floors of different heights, Reducer Strips are the perfect solution. Use them for connecting a hardwood floor with either a vinyl or low-pile carpet.
4. Thresholds: When you move through a doorway where the floors in adjoining rooms are different heights, thresholds are the best-looking solution. Use on hardwood floors when going to ceramic tile, carpet, or vinyl flooring.

Vertical Solutions

5. Shoe Base Moldings: Remember those tough spots such as under your kitchen cabinets? Shoe Base Moldings make it easy to transition between a floor and vertical surfaces under cabinets. You can also use them as a substitute for Quarter Round moldings when space is a limitation.
6. Quarter Round Moldings: Create a subtle blend between the Wall Base and your hardwood floor. You can also use them to make smooth transitions between the floor and cabinetry.
7. Wall Base Moldings: Nothing gives your room a more formal, finished look than Wall Base Moldings. Imagine the beautiful natural transition from your new wood floor to your new wallpaper or stylish new shade of paint.

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